En gang imellem skal man prale lidt, så her er teksten fra indlægget om Restaurationen, fra den nye udgave af White Guide Nordic 2016
Billedet for at illustrere at vi netop laver mad som beskrevet (…og så serverer vi helstegte svineskanke lige nu. Vi trancherer ned bordet med ske og gaffel)
Opinions, craftsmanship, humour and love of honest food have always guided this resilient restaurant run by married couple Bo and Lisbeth Jacobsen. That was true back when you could pick large set menus with the finest European bottles from their wine cellar, and now, when the prices have been lowered to match a bistro level. The wines are still European, featuring lots of tempting Burgundy and lively Italian options, but the ironed table cloths have been discarded and the aim has been turned towards the classic Danish kitchen in a genuine interpretation with a strong personal touch. Bo Jacobsen makes his own air-dried ham. In an exemplary rebellion against mass industry, he has shown that you can produce quality ham in Denmark if you choose your meat with care and spend the time this kind of project requires. If you are in luck, the starters on the menu will include the ultimate take on a Danish tartlet. Crisp as a croustade, correctly crafted from puff pastry rolled out into a picture-perfect thin shell, which crunches and tastes so good that you appreciate this dish’s popularity. The filling consists of whole pickled button mushrooms, roasted langoustine and thickened lobster bisque; listen carefully and you might hear the angels sing. The following dish exemplifies the food at Bo and Lisbeth’s place, food that does exactly what it says on the label. If the menu says salmon and cucumber, well, then the plate contains the finest smoked salmon and cucumber that actually tastes of cucumber. Richness and freshness unite in happy harmony while salt matches the light bitterness. Old virtues are not forgotten but elevated to a new level they richly deserve. Carrots are turned and served with whole shallots as a sweet and sharp garnish for ossobuco with bone marrow on the side. Restaurationen sticks to its principles and there is no pandering to modern trends or fashion. Take sugar, a much-derided ingredient in these health-focused times: Puddings don’t really work without it, and while Bo is the man behind the meats and stocks, Lisbeth is the woman behind some of the most exciting desserts in town. Here you will find pastries, apple compote, chocolate, cream and fruit to cater for any sweet tooth. These desserts are not to be missed, and neither is the classic cheese trolley. There is a simple way of explaining the high level of cooking at Restaurationen: Only use the finest ingredients and cook with noble and exacting chef’s skills. Every. Single. Time.
